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Sunday, 25 October 2015

Symbols within Portraits



This lesson was very helpful before we went to the portrait gallery as it made us look into the portraits more and helped us analyse the symbols within the portrait which suggests the sitters status and personality. This also helped us when trying to decide what kind of hairstyles and what type of makeup we would like to create in our final designs as we are able to see what Elizabethan hairstyles are actually like.

Within portraits these days they don't really include symbolic objects as the portraits are 
more about the models/sitters. However they do sometimes wear certain pieces of clothing that
suggest how wealthy they are of what things they like. In modern times the clothes worn by the model/sitter say more about them than the objects in the background which shows how times have changed and how the model is the main focus of the image.

In this lesson we learned that there is much more to the images we are looking at as there are symbols everywhere to denote the wealth of the sitter and what they are like as a person which was interesting to see/look at.

The seminar was very straight forward and wasn't at all hard to follow which made it easy to take notes as sometimes i struggle to keep up with the slides. After this lesson we went to the National Portrait Gallery and looked in the tudor section at Elizabethan style portraits to see what symbolic objects were used and we were required to find a portrait we like and research it when we got back to see what the symbols actually represent. I made sure I carried this research out a few days after the trip as I wasn't sure which portrait I liked the most.

Thursday, 22 October 2015

Face Charts - Monochromatic


Monochromatic
Using variations of the same colour can create a striking palette. but its difficult to use colour effectively without adding black, white and shades of grey for contrast. Select colours with a broad range of tints and shades to provide enough contrast.
When designing this look I was conscious about the base being white and didn't want to go for a super bright colour as I felt like black would be quite bold and complementary against the white. 
With this design I was unsure as to whether eyeliner would be needed as I didn't want to go over the top with the eyes as the lips are going to be black. 

Here is when I tried the look out in one of the practicals. From the start I was cautious of using the eyeliner as I  didn't want the eyes to end up being too dramatic as the lips were going to be very bold. When applying the white base I struggled getting consistent coverage as it went quite patchy and uneven.
To solve this problem I decided to buff it all out to try and make the application more consistent as the face looked extremely patchy. If I was to try this again i would use the IIlamasqua skin base instead of the Kryolan Super-colour  palette as it was oil based as it  wouldn't stay put.
With this look as I went for such bold lips I struggled to get it precise as I messed up the application it would have been obvious as it was against the white base which brings out the colours used on the eyes and lips.
However With this I did end up changing what products I used on the eyes as I decided that using the Illamasqua Liquid metal eye palette it would make the eyeshadow used on top more prominent and bright.



Products Used;
Illamasqua Skin Base
Kryolan Super colour for the lips
Mac Cool Neutral palette
Illamasqua 'Obsidian' Powder Eyeshadow
Illamasqua 'Sex' Powder Eyeshadow

Consultation notes;

Name - Grace Crocker
Age - 19
Skin type - Dry
Hair type - Naturally Brown and medium thickness

Skin Tone - Pale/Yellow Tone

Eye colour - Blue
Eye Shape - Even 

Allergies - None

Medication - None
Contraindication - None

Wednesday, 21 October 2015

National Portrait Gallery

Sitter - Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), Reigned 1558-1603. Sitter associated with 125 portraits.
Artist - Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (1561 or 1562-1636), Painter. Artist associated with 28 portraits, Sitter in 2 portraits.
Why was it painted? It probably commemorates an elaborate symbolic entertainment which Lee organised for the Queen in September 1592, and which may have been held in the grounds of Lee's house at Ditchley, near Oxford, or at the nearby palace at Woodstock.
What symbolic references are within the portrait? The portrait shows Elizabeth standing on the globe of the world, with her feet on Oxford shire. The stormy sky, the clouds parting to reveal sunshine, and the inscriptions on the painting, make it plain that the portrait's symbolic theme is forgiveness.

What does the clothing say about the sitter? The sitters clothing suggests that she is extremely wealthy as her dress is embroidered  and very elegant.




  • In this portrait Queen Elizabeth is standing on a globe which denotes that she has a lot of power and is above everyone else.
  • Queen Elizabeth’s dress is very big and puffy and the shoulders on the dress are almost shaped as wings which could connote that she is very powerful and wise.
  • Also in the background of the painting half denotes lightning and the other half is a blue sky. This could also fit into showing how powerful she is and how much control she actually has.
References;
Back to topThis portrait (2015) Available at: http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02079/Queen-Elizabeth-I-The-Ditchley-portrait (Accessed: 10 December 2015).

Monday, 19 October 2015

White base

White Base 

Here to experiment with creating a white base for the makeup for the elizabethan era we first tried out the white in the Kryolan super colour which went on really smooth and was very pigmented. This wasn't very hard to remove from the face either which was a positive and also meant that the product wouldn't be too harsh on the models skin as if the product was hard to remove the skin would have to be worked on a lot which could have a negative effect on the skin. This product settled quite nicely on the skin and was very smooth on the skin will quite full coverage.
As this product was proved affective I will consider using it when designing an Elizabethan look. This product looks really smooth and nice on the skin so will create a nice base for the makeup I apply.


Here we experimented with the Kryolan aquacolour white which didn't go on as nice as the oil based one and wasn't very pigmented either. The application was very streaky and uneven which wasn't the look we was going for. If i was to use this product again it would be for body painting or something that requires less of it so that it doesn't go patchy. This product had very little coverage and didn't look very nice on the skin.
When I design my Elizabethan look this product will not be used to create the base as it doesn't work well and is very difficult to get off of the skin which would cause irritation to it.


The last product we used was the Illamasqua skin base which went on really smooth and was very opaque on the skin which is helpful for when we create our Elizabethan looks as we need something we can layer onto the skin that wont stay tacky as we want the model to be as comfortable as possible.  This product has very full coverage on the skin and was very soft on the skin.
However when attempting to remove this product it took a while as product sets and is quite drying on the skin which could have a negative impact on the skin later on as if the face is pulled around and exposed to a number of different products it can irritate or dry the skin out.


Products Used;

Illamasqua Skin base
Kryolan Super Colour
Kryolan Aqua Colour



Consultation notes;
Name - Grace Crocker
Age - 19
Skin type - Dry
Hair type - Naturally Brown and medium thickness

Skin Tone - Pale/Yellow Tone
Eye colour - Blue
Eye Shape - Even 

Allergies - None
Medication - None
Contraindication - None

Practise to perfect techniques - Cream Contour

Even after practising powder contour I still struggle with it as its something I'm not used to. I find it difficult as the products I used are hard to blend out as they dry out quite quickly and it's just hard to get the darker contour to show up as the products don't show up very well.
Also the different with contour and powder contour is that when using a cream contour it doesn't stay put and smudges the foundation and when I use a powder contour it stays put and I am able to blend it out with it still being visible.







Products Used;
Illamasqua Satin Primer
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette
Illamasqua Loose Powder

Consultation notes;
Name - Jessica Price
Age - 18
Skin type - Dry
Hair type - Dyed Blonde and Thick

Skin Tone - Pink toned

Eye colour - Blue
Eye Shape - Even

Allergies - None

Medication - None

Contraindication - None

Practise to perfect techniques - Powder Contour

When practising powder contour I found that the Illamasqua Sculpting duo is one of the best products to use as it is so pigmented and just carves out your cheek bones extremely well. Also with this product I feel that the highlighter makes the skin look like it glowing and is just a really nice product to use.
Powder contour in my opinion is much easier than cream contour as it is hard to make the the darker colour stand out as the makeup is a creamy consistency and moves around if not set with powder.
Also with powder contours I feel that it is easier to blend them out if a mistake is made or if you put too much product on the brush. However with cream contour it is hard to move and blend about as some can set quickly.




Products Used;
Illamasqua Satin Primer
Kryolan Ultra Foundation
Illamasqua Loose Powder
Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo

Consultation notes;
Name - Jessica Price
Age - 18
Skin type - Dry
Hair type - Dyed Blonde and Thick

Skin Tone - Pink toned

Eye colour - Blue
Eye Shape - Even

Allergies - None

Medication - None

Contraindication - None

Practise to perfect techniques - Foundation


When applying foundation to someones face it is extremely important that you colour match the customer which can be done by swabbing colours you feel may be a match and blending them out to see if the colour disappears into their natural skin tone.
This step may take a while but cannot be skipped as you want the customer to be satisfied with her look. Also if the foundation doesn't match their natural skin tone it is obvious.
When first colour matching my partner I struggled as I have no experience in colour matching people but once you get the hand of it you managed it first round time.Also when doing makeup for a beauty shot the flash/lighting set up used will magnify the skin and will bring out any issues with the makeup so it is important that the makeup is used correctly.


Products used;
Illamasqua Satin Primer
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette
Kryolan Concealer Palette
Illamasqua Loose powder


Consultation notes;

Name - Jami Luu
Age - 18
Skin type - Dry
Hair type - Naturally Dark Brown and thick

Skin Tone - Olive toned

Eye colour - Brown
Eye Shape - Small Eyelids

Allergies - None

Medication - None


Contraindication - Eye Contacts.

Sunday, 18 October 2015

Tudor cosmetics

The use of cosmetics or make-up was frowned upon at some points in history. However make-up also had a practical use to hide the scarring of various diseases such as smallpox. 

Perfumes were popular together with the use of creams and unguents to soften the skin. These were made from ingredients such as using honey, beeswax and sesame seed oil. 
During the Crusades, Europe was introduced to the cosmetic products used in the Middle East. Perfumes were popular and produced from flowers such as roses, water lilies and violets. 
The eye make-up used in the Middle East concentrated in providing colour to their eye lashes, eye lids and eye brows. 

A type of rouge made from red ochre was used to stain their lips and cheeks and a form of henna was used to paint their nails and colour their hair. 

Queen Elizabeth I set the fashions and as she grew older she more wore elaborate make-up which was useful for hiding wrinkles and other signs of ageing. 
Queen Elizabeth had contracted small pox which had left some slight scarring on her face. As she grew older the heavy white make-up which she favoured helped to hide this and maintain her illusion of beauty and image as the 'Virgin Queen'.

Queen Elizabeth did have the natural attributes of this ideal image of beauty but she enhanced and exaggerated the image by using white make-up. This explains the odd white face make-up seen in many of her portraits. The favoured application of the upper classes was a make-up called ceruse which was a mixture of white lead and vinegar. Unfortunately was poisonous. The acquisition of a pale complexion was so desirable that rich Tudor women were bled to achieve the desired pale look. Face paint made from plant roots and leaves was also applied. The look was completed with an application of an expensive rouge made from cochineal (a scarlet dye used for colouring food, made from the crushed dried bodies of a female scale insect) to stain the cheeks and the lips. Madder (A red dye obtained from these rootsand vermilion (brilliant red pigment made from mercury sulphide (cinnabar) was also used to achieve this reddening effect). Kohl was used to darken the eyelashes, another element of make-up which was imported from the Middle East during the crusades.

Rich Tudor women followed the fashion of light hair dyed their hair yellow. The yellow hair dye was made from a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs and hairpieces were also popular and Queen Elizabeth I had a wide variety of wigs, periwigs and hair pieces which numbered over eighty. 


To make the hands and face white:
Take leaves and roots of nettle and boil them in water and with this water wash your hands and face and they will become white and soft. 

To cure redness of the face:
Take white lead [ceruse], rose water and violet oil and mix together and anoint the face.

To keep the teeth tight in the jaw:
Take a cup of plantain water and boil in it these things: tragacanth putty, 1 on. rock alum, and make very fine powder out of all these and Boil them for half an hour in said water and with said water wash the gums frequently.

To seal the teeth:
Take fresh olive leaves and make a juice from them, then the same amount of onion juice and mix together, and put in an ampolla and put in the sun for 4 days, then Bathe and rub the teeth they will seal well.

To make powder to make teeth white:

Take coral and rock alum burned and ground very well and pass through a sieve and use.

A lot of these products/ingredients to make the cosmetics were dangerous as they probably didn't know the dangers of them or what they could do to them which just goes to show that not many people really cared about the consequences of these products and just wanted to look like queen Elizabeth whether it meant harming or damaging their skin. 
Reading through the types of things they used as ingredients to make cosmetics and not knowing what half of them are shows how they used random things to make them look more 'elizabethan' as everyone looked up to her which in a way wasn't good as it meant people used harmful recipes to make their own cosmetics to get pure white skin or rouge lips.

References;
Cosmetics recipes (2012) Available at: https://sites.eca.ed.ac.uk/renaissancecosmetics/cosmetics-recipes/ (Accessed: 10 December 2015).